The village of Portovenere occupies the suggestive promontory of Cape San Pietro, originated from the Mount Muzzerone, and closes westwards the big Gulf of La Spezia. The coast stretches very jagged creating various well defended creek, like the bay of Portovenere itself, and the inlets of Varignano and of the Graces. In front of Cape San Pietro there are Palmaria island and the islands of Tino and Tinetto, originally linked to the mainland. They present a sharper slope with falesias leaning on the sea, while on the opposite side the land is covered with a thick vegetation.

History of Portovenere

An inhabited core called Portus Veneris seems to have existed when the Romans founded the town of Luni (177 B.C.). Certainly the core is mentioned as a landing-place in the coastal portolano dated 161 A.C. known with the name of itinerarium maritimum im- peratoris Antonini Augusti.

Tradition wants that the name of the village comes from a pagan temple dedicated to Venus Ericina situated on the point of the promontory. The events of the place from the very beginning of Christianity, that saw the islands of Tino and Tinetto becoming centres of performance and spread of this religion to the East, are historically well more documentated. In fact, on the two little islands there are some conspicuous ruins of religious works: on Tinetto some ruins of a church dating back to the 10th-llth century and on Tino some structures of the l1th and 15th centuries, evidence of the old Abbey of San Venerio, hermit born in that place. The monks left the two islands at the end of the 15th century and moved to the monastery of the Grazie. Portovenere was a Byzantine fortified centre which was conquered and destroyed by Rotari in 641-43. Enclosed into the Obertenga March, in the l1th century it became part of the feud belonging to the Lords of Vezzano, who at the beginning of the 12th century, sold it to the Genoese, who transformed it into a sure and well fortified stronghold above all during the Pisan occupation of Lerici (1241-1256).

Besides by the castle on the top of the hill, the village was defended by some walls and towers of defence, while some particular towers were built on the band facing the harbour. The inhabited area, placed in a strategic position, during the centuries was subject to enemy's attacks, but its very imposing fortifications always protected it from defeat. In the middle of the 15th century, the Genoese rebuilt the castle according to a perfectly integral pentagonal form, in order to fit it to the new war techniques.

What to see and What to do in Portovenere - Tourist attractions

Porto Venere tourist attractions include the striped church overlooking the waves, the Chiesa di S. Pietro. Built in 1277, the building sits on the remains of a sixth-century chapel, traces of which can still be seen. Earlier still, a temple to Venus (Venere) stood on the picturesque spot. Another church worth visiting is the Chiesa di S. Lorenzo. Further up the slope, this large church contains several fine works of art, as well as a sacred piece of timber (apparently various rich religious relics floated miraculously to the town, embedded in this beam). For the picnicker, there is a drinking water fountain outside the church

In a superb strategic viewpoint high above the waves is the Genoese fortress, the Castello Doria (open mornings and afternoons; limited opening in winter). You don't need to pay the entrance charge to the castle to enjoy excellent views; a pretty terrace below it looks over the sea and is a lovely spot for that picnic.

Down below the chapel on the headland, a sign points out Byron's cave, the Grotta Byron, where the poet composed The Corsair. It collapsed last century, there's just a pile of rocks to see now. When Byron was at Porto Venere one of his achievements was to swim across the gulf to visit his friends the Shelleys in Lerici.

The Palmaria Island

The pretty island of Palmaria is chiefly famous for its black, gold-veined marble and for its Prehistoric cave, 30 metres up sheer cliffs on the western side. In 1869, evidence of Stone Ages settlements was found here, along with biets and pieces- flints, human and animal remains, etc. - from the last Ice Age, now on display in the museum at La Spezia.
In the 4-5C AD both the island Palmaria and that of the Tino were occupied by thriving monasteries, of which few signs now remain. The Island today bears the ruins of various second World War fortifications, increasingly overrun by its tangled, fragrant maquis.

Besides these aspects, the island is also particularly interesting from a botanical point of view. While strolling along the paths facing the sea, one may observe a rich and varied vegetation formed by sage, wild berries, mirth, broom, acacias, wild orchids and the precious Venus centaurea with its gracious small white blossoms that are only found here. You can be totally immersed in the island's nature and fully enjoy the extraordinarily beautiful landscape walking through the paths that cross it. Even the sea offers exciting under-water itineraries, the depths are limpid and shelter a wide range of rare marine and plant species.
For the ones who love long hikes, the Path number 1 of the Cinque Terre departs from Porto Venere; so It's possible to reach any of the Cinque Terre and return by boat.

The island is connected all year round to PortoVenere by public boats which run on a schedule: 07:30, 10:30, 13:00, 14:30, 17:00.
Beginning from Easter there're more boats departing from the main dock of Porto Venere; the cost is Euro 1,50/run. The service is continuos from 9.00 till 19.00 (later summer time).

How to get to Portovenere

The handiest airports for this stretch of the Italian Riviera are Genoa and Pisa - both towns are connected by rail to the coast, and both are on budget airline routes from the UK. Unfortunately Porto Venere's location means that it is not on the handy coastal railway line. It is, however, linked by bus to La Spezia.

Boat services
Tourist boat services run, in season, to La Spezia and the Cinque Terre.